Wet soil is not just a nuisance – high soil moisture can actually lead to dead plants, failed crops, or stability problems in surrounding structures.
The best way to dry a large amount of soil is to completely aerate it and mix it with natural conditioners that do not disturb the pH level and its natural composition.
If you are in a hurry, overuse of a chemical dry organic supplement such as lime will also do the trick.
How to Dry Out Soil Quickly?
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Ventilate the soil in your lawn or garden
In the first part, we will aerate the soil in the grass or garden.
Remove Large Pieces of Waste From the Soil Surface:
Go to the area you want to dry and remove or move any rocks, clumps, or another soil cover. Cleaning these materials improves the area’s exposure to air and sunlight, both of which have a natural drying effect on moist soil.
- Elimination of plant sorbents is very important. Items such as dead leaves, old manure, and decaying plant stems tend to retain water, which can wet your soil.
- If you do not clean your workplace first, there is also a risk that you may inadvertently mix plant debris with it while submerging the soil, making it worse.
- You can increase air circulation and access to sunlight by reducing shade sources, such as overgrown shrubs and tall branches with thick foliage.
Let the Stagnant Water Dry Naturally:
Aeration only helps if the soil does not dry out. If there is a visible pit or sludge on the surface, you should allow the extra moisture to dissipate on its own or resort to a different and faster method such as adding organic dry matter or lime.
When it is firm to the touch, you know your soil is ready to aerate. It can still be wet, but it should not be so soft that it easily loses its shape.
As mentioned, exposure to sunlight and air is the main cause of the rapid drying of wet soil. For this reason, it is best to plan your project for a clean, dry period, where no more rain is forecast.
Choose an Aeration Tool That Fits the Size of Your Workplace:
A basic stage aerator will work best for small yards and patches of soil. Long gardening forks, tentacles, and aerated shoes are other useful options.
Each of these tools is inexpensive and reasonable and easy to clean and maintain. If you need to cover more ground, it’s worth investing in a hand-held or motorized rotary aerator.
Note: There are even towing light aerators that you can attach to the back of a tractor or similar vehicle with the least amount of time and effort to move large areas of soil.
Break the Soil Surface With Your Aeration Tool:
Start on one side of the place and go to the opposite end. Then, rotate and turn in the opposite direction, using your tool branches to create a fresh layer of untouched soil.
Keep doing this until you cover the entire area to be dried. When working, your aeration hooks make many holes in the soil, allowing more air and sunlight to enter.
- To use step aeration, place the forks at a 90-degree angle to the ground and place your full weight with one foot on the tool head to immerse it in the ground.
- When using a fork or fork, lower the fork into the ground like a spear, then move the long handle back and forth to loosen the dirt.
- If you have chosen a pair of aerated shoes, easily tie them to your feet and go back and forth in your workplace. With this method, as an additional reward, you will exercise a little!
- Working with an aerator is usually as easy as pushing it to the surface like a lawn mower, but make sure it conforms to the manufacturer’s instructions to use it safely and effectively.
Keep Aerated Soil Clean for the Next Few Days:
Once done, collect the remaining items identified by your aeration. After that, try to remove rocks, fallen branches, decaying plant material, and other materials.
As long as the air is dry, your soil should be workable within about a week.
Removing piles of loose soil can create more space for the soil to expand, which in turn improves its ability to evacuate completely.
Add Dryer Modifications to Soil
In this section, we deal with soil dryer modifications.
Remove Any Possible Blockages That May Make the Task More Difficult:
Start by collecting weeds, leaves, old manure, and any solid debris or absorbent debris. These materials can prevent air and sunlight from entering the subsoil.
As a result, your soil stays intact by natural drying processes and stays moist for longer.
If you can not get rid of the unwanted debris, it can make its way into the soil and make your soil more watery than before, even though you have added the desired improvements.
Let the Soil Dry Overnight as Much as Possible:
After cleaning your workplace, let it rest for about 8-12 hours. This gives the surrounding air and sunlight some time to heal on earth before it begins to heal.
There is no need to wait for it to dry completely, as this will essentially defeat the purpose – just make sure that any stagnant water is starting to diminish.
- Moisture adds significant weight to the soil, so when it is semi-dry you will make it much easier to work with your corrections.
- If time is of the essence, it’s okay to start mowing your soil while it is still slightly moist. Just note that you have to work harder.
Spread 5 to 7.5 CM of Gravel on the Soil Surface:
Place one or more bags of pebbles on your work surface and use a shovel or rake to equalize the thickness.
Pouring a small amount of gravel into the soil creates an unabsorbed space between individual particles, allowing more air to enter and minimizing the amount of water that the soil holds.
You will find pea pebbles in every size at any garden store, or lawn or local garden improvement center. You can also use sand instead of gravel, provided you use some type of non-clay soil. Adding sand to wet clay can harden it like concrete.
Apply a 5.1–7.6 CM Layer of Your Desired Organic Modifications:
Put some topsoil, fertilizer, hummus, or any other type of nutrient completely on the gravel. Distribute the materials evenly in your workplace. You are now ready to start mixing the two layers of modification in the soil.
When you add gravel and sand to the soil, you increase the space occupied by non-nutrient components. Your organic remedies compensate by enhancing the overall nutrient content of the soil. If you do not intend to grow anything in the soil you are drying, it is not a problem to skip this step.
Note: A constitution when working with clay soils is to use approximately 1 cubic yard (0.8 cubic meters) of modifier per 100 square feet (9.3 square meters) of land. You can use a lower ratio in drier soil types.
Mix the Corrections in the Soil With a Shovel, Rake or Shovel:
Using your machine, grind the soil completely on the area you want to dry. As you work, your remedies are placed in moist soil.
For best results, try to make corrections to a depth of at least 20–23 cm and make sure that no dense lumps or mounds remain.
Once you have repaired moist soil, any water that remains on top of the soil should drain faster than usual. You may have fewer problems retaining moisture for weeks or months.
Replanting the Plant to Help Dry the Wet Soil
You may need to reproduce the plant to solve the problem of waterlogged plant soil.
First, remove as much wet soil as possible from the roots of the plant. Then remove or cut the brownish or pasty roots. Be sure to use sterilized pruners or scissors to prevent the spread of the disease.
Choose a container that has a drain hole. Use a fresh soil mixture to replant the plant, but add more coarse materials such as perlite. This creates air pockets in the soil and helps provide additional oxygen to the plant’s roots.
Finally, a good rule of thumb is to let the surface of the houseplant dry before you think about watering again.
Ziton, T. (2021, October 14). The 7 Quickest Ways to Dry Out Garden Soil. Couch to Homestead. https://couchtohomestead.com/quickly-dry-garden-soil/